Used car buying guide: Peugeot 106 GTi

So that’s the Rallyes. The 106 GTi, launched in 1996, is a more rounded affair. Like the S2 Rallye it’s powered by a 1.6-litre engine but this time with 16 valves and an output of 117bhp. At 950kg it’s the heaviest of the three models, but its greater power means it’s also the fastest. At the time it was also the most expensive, the extra dosh buying that more powerful engine, power steering, smarter alloy wheels and a bodykit. The first Phase 1 cars had cloth seats but Phase 2 models enjoyed a mix of Alcantara and leather. Fortunately, despite its sundry creature comforts, the GTi is just as much fun to hoon down a B-road as its Rallye siblings. That said, today, Rallyes are the more sought-after, but if you find a good GTi for decent money, don’t hesitate.

How to get one in your garage

Darren Spooner, Spoox Motorsport

“We’ve been servicing, modifying and racing Peugeots for years. My favourite era is the 1990s, and among the cars produced then, the 106 GTi stands out. It’s the one I would have over the two Rallye models. Being lighter but with a powerful engine, it can keep up with a 306 GTi-6. Even so, the Rallyes were very good, and you don’t really have to do anything to them to have fun. The S2 was brilliant out of the box, but I prefer the S1’s terrier-like responses. Rust is the number one enemy of Rallyes and GTis. It breaks out everywhere, so don’t be fooled by a nice paint job. For the Rallyes, original parts including air boxes and the S1’s red seatbelts are hard to find.”

Buyer beware

Engine: The 1.3-litre engine in the Rallye S1 is tough but the timing belt should be changed every three years. The Rallye S2 and GTi engines are also tough but suffer with clogged Pico injectors. The woodruff key on the bottom crank pulley can break, then the pulley wanders and throws out the timing, allowing valves and pistons to collide.

Gearbox: On Rallyes, the crown wheel in the gearbox can come adrift, the cross pins can break and the gearbox casting is poor. It’s not strong enough to withstand the stresses as the clutch is released and the power comes in, and it suffers metal fatigue as a result.

Suspension and brakes: Expect bushes to be tired, brake lines to be rusty and dampers and springs to be on their way out, but original or upgraded parts are plentiful and inexpensive. Check for rear tyre wear on the inner shoulders, a problem caused by worn rear beam bearings.

Body: Check for rust on the rear quarter inner wings, boot floor and front jacking points (where former owners have jacked the car incorrectly and split the sill seams). It also breaks out on the inner front wings – on the nearside where the ECU and washer bottle are located and on the offside where the fuse box is. Check for rust on the inner faces of the boot walls by poking inside the rear arches.

Interior: Expect seats and switchgear to be falling apart.